Sewing Techniques: How to Make a Rolled Hem

Rolled Hems is a delicate and precise hemming technique that completes seam allowances and gives your clothing a tidy and finished appearance. This step-by-step tutorial will reveal the techniques for creating the ideal rolled hem, regardless of whether you're designing special event clothing, sheer textiles, or silk.

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So, why wait? Let's get to business.

Why is the Rolled Hem Important?

The rolled hem is key to giving your sewing projects a polished, professional look. This method gives your garment a clean finish while ensuring that the seam allowances stay covered, giving it a professional appearance.

Although you can buy a specific rolled hem foot for your sewing machine, we'll walk you through a different technique that's great for novice and expert sewers. With this method, you won't need to buy a new sewing machine foot!

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How to Sew a Rolled Hem: Step-by-Step

Step 1: Prepare the Seam

Start by stitching a seam along the garment's hem. This first seam must be stitched 1/4" (5mm) away from the length you want the completed hem to be. For instance, your seam will be 3/8′′ (1cm) from the fabric's edge if your hem allowance is 5/8′′ (1.5cm). Use a regular stitch length to sew this seam, and make sure to backstitch at its beginning and end. Consider tying up your threads and using a lower stitch length when working with fragile fabrics like silk, but always test your fabric first.

Step 2: Press the Seam

Press the first stitching flat so that the stitches blend into the cloth, with the wrong side of the fabric facing up. Fold the hem allowance to the garment's wrong side to expose the prior stitching line, leaving roughly 1/8" (3mm) of cloth.

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Step 3: Sew the First Fold

Sew straight over the previous stitching line with your sewing machine. You can practice stitching with accuracy by completing this step.

Step 4: Trim the Excess

Trim off the remaining seam (hem) allowance, cutting as close to the stitching as possible, typically about 1/8″ (2mm) away.

Step 5: Fold and Sew Again

Turn the small hem toward the fabric's wrong side to hide the raw edge. Sew again right on top of the previous stitching line after pressing it into place.

While the garment will have two sewing lines on the back, the rolled hem will neatly conceal the fraying seam allowance edges, leaving only one stitching line visible on the front.

Your first rolled hem has just been sewn! Even though the process could appear tedious, especially for wider hems, the outcome will be worthwhile. Your finished item will be the star of your sewing portfolio because it exudes class and professionalism.

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